It is a sleepy Wednesday in January in the Ceredigion village of Llanon but a steady stream of customers file through the doors of Cigydd Sion Jones Butcher, poring over a pristine counter stocked with the finest meat.

Food miles

Cleaver in hand, Sion Jones cuts a steak for one regular, beef from an animal born and reared on a farm just two miles down the road, his partner, Sulwen Richards, flitting between the counter and the till adding sausages, a joint of topside and some mince to the order.

The couple may only be in their late twenties and not a year into running the business, but they are naturally garrulous and the wit and wisdom that butchers are renowned for is already evident in their banter with customers.

Journey into butchery

Sion is a fresh-faced 28-year-old, but he was just 12 when he first took an interest in butchery, helping out in the very shop that is now their business.

That work experience led to an apprenticeship with Ben Evans where Sion learned the skills of the trade, cutting all types of beef, lamb, pork and poultry, knowledge passed down by demonstration.

It was an important education, learning how to strip a carcass with minimal waste, to cut different joints in multiple ways and making sausages, burgers and other meat products. “I learnt on the job and was lucky to work alongside Ben and his staff,” he says.

In 2024, Ben made the decision to retire and that opened the door to a new generation of butchers to step into his shoes.

Open for business

Sion and Sulwen took on the lease for the building and in April 2024 Cigydd Sion Jones Butcher opened for business.

“It did feel like a risk, starting any new business has its challenges, but it was a brilliant opportunity to have a shot at and we are delighted that we have had that chance,” reflects Sulwen.

Like their predecessor, buying local stock from trusted sources underpins their business model.

As well as lamb and beef supplied by their families they have half a dozen or so regular suppliers including Morfa Farm, a family-run holding two miles from Llanon where they source beef and spring lamb.

Partnership working

“It is a partnership we are proud of, there is a lot of mutual trust and respect, we are grateful to have that relationship with our suppliers,” says Sulwen.

Despite rising meat prices, they remain committed to paying a premium price per kilogramme.

“We understand the challenges farmers are facing, and we believe they deserve a fair price for the quality of their produce,” says Sion.

The furthest they venture to source meat is the livestock mart at Llanybydder. “Local marts are a crucial hub within the farming community. It is important that we look after the farmers who sell their stock there too,” Sion reckons.

Increasing cost of regulation

Whilst the increasing cost of regulation is putting many small abattoirs out of business, the facility at Tregaron is well used and is where the stock the couple buy is slaughtered, adding to the low food miles story.

“An animal that is raised locally and travels just a few miles to the slaughterhouse then back here, you don’t get meat that is more local than that,” Sion rightly points out.

“The abattoir at Tregaron is a massive asset to us. Without it, we’d be looking at much further travel to larger abattoirs in Haverfordwest or Llanidloes, which wouldn’t align with our ‘local’ values.”

In his experience, there is no such thing as a typical profile for someone who chooses to buy their meat from an independent butcher instead of picking it up at the supermarket with the rest of their shop.

There are locals who are regulars, some who call in for a quick meal or easy supper, others who place a weekly order, and ‘everything in between’, customers who pop in from time to time or shop for ‘high days and holidays’, and also many tourists as the area is home to a number of caravan sites and other holiday accommodation.

Local support

“We’re very grateful for the local support we’ve received since we opened. It’s been fantastic to see our community get behind us and we really appreciate their loyalty,” says Sulwen.

Butchers have had to adapt to the changing needs and tastes of the consumer. While the traditional Sunday roast is still popular, the type of joints in demand are smaller with the meat often eaten in one sitting.

For weekday meals, the consumer now favours meats that are convenient and quick to whip up into a meal – burgers, meatballs with pasta or rice, chicken kievs and kebabs.

Meeting demand

Creating products that meet that demand plays an important role in sustaining rural butchers like Cigydd Sion Jones Butcher.

About half of what it sells falls into the ‘traditional’ category while 50% are convenient and innovative products, like beef truffles.

They also stock products such as locally-produced Edkins Eggs. “That business was established by a local family who have the same morals and values as us, it is really nice we can work with suppliers like that,” Sulwen acknowledges.

As well as direct sales, the business supplies eight local shops three times a week, including Morrisons Daily, Costcutter, Nisa and Londis, which sell the products with the Cigydd Sion Jones Butcher branding.

It extends their reach and gives their customers the option of buying their products when in those shops or when their butcher’s shop is closed, although one of the measures they have taken is to extend opening hours for the convenience of shoppers.

Local delivery service

They also provide a free local delivery service and that generates some good business.

Social media plays a key role in their marketing efforts, helping them to reach a wider audience.

“For us, it’s not just about promoting the business, but also sharing our values and raising awareness about the importance of supporting local and the future of Welsh farming,” says Sulwen.

“Family farms are at the heart of what we do, and we feel a strong responsibility to showcase every element of the sustainable journey, from farm to fork.”

It is not competition from rival independent butchers that has resulted in the closure of many high street and village butchers but from supermarkets.

Sion and Sulwen don’t regard their fellow butchers as their competition. “We have a good relationship with other local butchers, they are not our competitors, supermarkets are.

“We understand why people shop at supermarkets, especially those with busy lifestyles, as it’s all about convenience. But, from a price perspective, we are often very competitive and we hope the quality of our locally sourced meat speaks for itself.”

Butchery knowledge

Butchery knowledge like Sion’s is passed down by demonstration and without new blood in the industry, it’ll be lost.

It is why the couple are keen to one day hire an apprentice, to give a local youngster the same opportunity that Sion had.

“When I left school, it was common for businesses to take on an apprentice, but those opportunities seem to have reduced.

“We really hope that the wheel can turn full circle and that we can give the opportunity in time to supporting someone through that process.”

The couple are keen to make a positive impact on the local community’s understanding of the meat industry and its values, particularly among young people. “We feel a strong sense of responsibility to educate them on the importance of low food miles, high standards of meat production, the benefits of supporting local agriculture and to understand the journey from farm to fork,” explains Sulwen.

Local school visits

Visits to local schools are helping to educate students about sustainable food choices, where their food comes from, and why supporting local matters. They hope that these visits may also encourage the next generation to consider a career in the trade.

“We really enjoyed visiting Ysgol Bro Pedr in Lampeter, seeing the students’ interest in the trade was heartwarming,” reflects Sion. “We really hope that visits like these help them to understand and consider their food choices. There is also a real shortage of new entrants to the trade, so we hope that sharing our experience might inspire others.”

Investment

Establishing the business has required significant investment, both planned and unplanned. Storm Darragh left them without power for three days in December 2024 and, although they were fortunate to secure alternative chiller facilities for the duration, it was a very stressful period.

Without it they would have lost all their meat for the Christmas period and couldn’t risk that happening again.

Within two days, they had invested in a trailed refrigeration unit. “Despite the challenges of making significant investments as a small business, assets like the refrigerated trailer have been key to improving our processes, capacity and resilience,” says Sulwen.

They have had support along the way to help develop their business, from the likes of Business Wales, Food Centre Wales and Cywain, and for that they are grateful.

Awards

In December, Cigydd Sion Jones Butcher won the Young Entrepreneur Award at the Caru Ceredigion Awards. This recognition highlights the couple’s dedication in growing the business, as well as their commitment to supporting local farmers and the community, the award a testament to their continued drive to innovate and make a positive impact within the industry.

As they look to the future, they don’t harbour grand ambitions to open multiple stores, they want to continue doing what they do to the highest possible standard at one site.

But who knows what the future might hold. “We want to grow the business sustainably, to do it right, and to keep enjoying it,” says Sulwen.

“Opening a business has meant a big shift in everything we do, but we are delighted that we went for it and, as for the future, we are excited to see how things go.”